For Fosters

Fostering with Always & Furever

Thank you for opening your home and your heart. This guide is everything we wish we could sit down and tell you over coffee — the practical stuff, the gentle stuff, the hard stuff. You are the bridge between somewhere else and home. 🏡

A note before you read on

The guidance in this library is shared as reference material only. Every animal is an individual with their own history, temperament, and needs — and reading these guides does not guarantee that your pet's specific behavior challenges will be resolved.

Please don't rely on this library alone. For aggression, severe anxiety, biting, sudden behavior changes, or anything that worries you, consult your veterinarian first to rule out medical causes, and then work with a certified positive-reinforcement trainer or veterinary behaviorist for personalized support.

Fosters, adopters, and pet parents are always encouraged to seek professional guidance when their situation calls for more than a starting point. We're rooting for you and your pet — and we're here to help connect you with the right people when you need them. Reach us through alwaysandfurever.org/contact.

What's on this page
A welcome

You're not just a placeholder. You're the whole chapter.

Thank you for fostering with Always & Furever. We couldn't do what we do without you. Helping to give our dogs a "stay over" in a loving environment until they find their furever home gives them the comfort, security, and love of a human — and you receive their love in return.

Being a foster comes with happy times. We won't pretend it doesn't also come with bumps. These dogs come with traumatic pasts, and there's a learning curve. The pages that follow are the resources we've gathered to walk that road with you.

When you bring a new foster home, think of it like welcoming a friend who's been through a lot. They may feel scared or unsure, so the first step is always patience. A calm, quiet environment is the medicine. Show them around slowly. Let them explore without pressure. Going slow is the fastest way forward.

The first week

If your foster has come directly from a shelter, the first seven days have two non-negotiable rules.

Kennel at night for the first week

If your new foster is coming directly from a shelter, we require that you kennel your foster dog at night for at least the first week. This helps them adjust, feel secure, and prevents unforeseen issues as they settle in.

No dog-to-dog introductions for at least 7 days

If your foster has come directly from a shelter, please avoid any dog-to-dog intros during the first week — unless you've already done the introduction at one of our barns. This gives the dog time to decompress and adjust. Watch for warning signs: stiffening, low growling, hard stares.

The 3-3-3 rule

A general guideline for what to expect. Every dog is unique and will adjust differently. Give your foster space to go at their own pace.

First 3 days

Decompression

Feeling overwhelmed. May be scared and unsure of what's going on. Not comfortable enough to be themselves. May not want to eat or drink. Shut down — curling up in their crate or hiding under a table. Testing the boundaries.

After 3 weeks

Settling in

Starting to settle. Feeling more comfortable. Realizing this could possibly be their forever home. Figured out the environment. Getting into a routine. Letting their guard down — true personality starts to show. Behavior issues may also start showing up now.

After 3 months

At home

Finally completely comfortable in the home. Building trust and a true bond. Gained a complete sense of security with their family. Set in a routine. This is the dog they were always meant to be.

Patience is the only tool that always works. Give your foster space, give yourself grace, and remember — the dog who comes out at the three-month mark is the one we knew they could be all along.

Decompression

It takes anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks for a dog to fully decompress. This means they need time to unwind from all the changes happening in their life.

  • Give them their own space — a kennel, a room, a corner that's just theirs.
  • Be a calm presence. You never know how a dog will act in a new environment. Dogs feed off your energy, so try to make these first weeks relaxing for both of you.
  • Keep them on a leash and supervised at all times, even if they're not a puppy. In a new environment, they'll test their boundaries. Leashes prevent them from rehearsing unwanted behaviors. The completion of the action is the reward, so prevention is key.
  • Minimize stimulation. Don't introduce them to people on walks. Skip the family dinner party. Hold off on visits to friends' homes. For the first 7–14 days, your foster should lay low.

Setting up your space

Planning where you'll keep your foster before they arrive makes everything easier. When you first bring a foster home, confine them to a single room — a kitchen or family room. It shouldn't be isolated; it should be a room where you spend a lot of time, because dogs are pack animals and want to be with you.

Use a baby gate to block off other rooms. By keeping the dog in one room, you'll prevent accidents that may happen because of stress, you'll help them decompress, and you'll be able to monitor for early signs of any issues.

Even a house-trained dog might have an accident or two during this adjustment. That's normal.

Always crate when you're away

We ask that you always have a crate available in this room. Use it any time you're away from the house or in a completely separate room from your other animals.

Rex's story

Beautiful Rex was a beloved family member of one of our fosters who lost his life to a foster pup who had carried hidden emotional damage. We cannot stress the importance enough of making his life matter by crating ALL foster dogs when you are away to prevent such tragedy. Your safety and your family's safety matter. Remember — we know very little about their past.

Do

  • Keep your foster indoors with a crate available
  • Keep them in a warm/cool, dry location (depending on the season)
  • Keep them on a leash at all times outdoors, unless in a secured fenced yard
  • Supervise them at all times, even in a secured yard — foster dogs are escape artists
  • Communicate with your mentor, medical coordinator, FB group, or email anytime something comes up

Don't

  • Leave your foster uncrated when you're not home
  • Leave them unattended with a child or your own dog
  • Place them around strange dogs — we often don't know their history
  • Take them to an off-leash park — ever. This will result in removal of the foster and end your role as a foster parent.
  • Throw a welcome party or have lots of people over the first week

Transporting your foster

The safest way to transport your foster — from the shelter to your home, or anywhere else — is in a secured crate that can't tip or slide. If a crate won't fit in your vehicle, your foster is safest in the back seat with a special harness that hooks to a seatbelt.

Put a blanket under the crate or in the back of the vehicle. Car sickness happens. Better safe than sorry on your upholstery.

Don't let your foster ride in the front passenger seat. Your view can be blocked, and a sudden brake could send them into the windshield or trigger an airbag injury.

Lifting a foster who's reluctant to get in the car

A few treats often work better than force. If you can get them to put their front paws up, you can lift the back end by supporting their hindquarters. If you need to lift completely: one arm behind hind legs, one arm in front of front legs — essentially a scoop. Most dogs don't love being lifted, so keep a hand on the leash throughout.

Crate training

Crates are dens. They calm dogs, prevent destructive chewing, and help with house training. Done right, crating becomes a safe haven your foster chooses.

Crate training can take days or weeks depending on age, temperament, and past experience. Keep sessions short and positive. The crate should never be a punishment — if it becomes one, the dog will learn to avoid it.

Step-by-step introduction

  1. Place the crate in a central part of your home — somewhere your family spends time, not isolated. Put a blanket inside.
  2. Let them explore at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious. If yours isn't, put them on a leash and bring them near the crate. Give treats and praise for any approach.
  3. Feed them in the crate with the door open. If they hesitate, place the bowl just inside the door so their head's in but their body's out.
  4. Add the verbal cue. Once they're going in willingly, place a treat at the back of the crate and say "kennel" as they go in. Repeat. Eventually the word alone will work.
  5. Practice door closing. When they're comfortable inside, gently shut the door, then open it right back up with an "okay" release. Repeat until calm.
  6. Gradually increase duration. Build from seconds to minutes to hours. Work up to 30 minutes calm before leaving them while you go out.

Tips for stubborn cases

  • Use a Kong stuffed with peanut butter, freeze-dried liver, or frozen food and honey. The work of getting it out makes the crate the best place in the house.
  • Vary when in your leaving routine you put them in the crate — anywhere from 1 to 20 minutes before you go.
  • Make the exciting part going into the crate, not coming out.
  • Don't make departures emotional. Praise briefly, treat, leave quietly.
  • Leave on soothing music or talk radio while you're gone.
  • Rotate toys so they don't get bored.
  • Use a blanket, not paper — dogs instinctively don't go to the bathroom where they sleep.

House training

In the home, your foster should be supervised or in a kennel when you can't supervise. This prevents them from making mistakes. Every accident reinforces that going inside is okay. Prevention is the whole game.

Build a schedule

Feeding, potty breaks, and exercise on a consistent schedule will help your foster's body get on a rhythm. After eating, sleeping, and hard play — those are the times to take them out.

A general rule: dogs can hold their bladder roughly the number of hours equal to their age in months, up to 10–11 hours. A 6-month-old can hold it about 6 hours.

On a leash, even in the yard

Take them out on a leash when possible. It keeps them focused on the job rather than the squirrels. When they finish, praise immediately — verbal ("good job, go potty outside"), physical (pet them), and a small treat. Pair all three until the behavior is solid, then phase out the treats.

If they have an accident

  • If you catch them mid-act: interrupt with a calm "Ah-ah" and immediately take them outside to finish.
  • Do not correct after the fact. Dogs don't connect your anger with a wet spot from earlier — they just learn to be afraid of you near messes.
  • Clean thoroughly. Use an odor neutralizer like Nature's Miracle, hydrogen peroxide, or vinegar. If they smell the spot, they'll return to it.

Dog-to-dog introductions

Once your foster has decompressed (3–7 days, sometimes longer), they may be ready to meet your resident dog. The longer you wait, the better you set them up.

Before they meet face to face

Let each dog sniff places where the other has been hanging out. Scent introduction is huge — it lets them "know" each other before the in-person meeting.

The parallel walk

  1. Pick neutral ground — a park, not your house or yard.
  2. Two people, two dogs. Start at least 20 feet apart, walking in the same direction.
  3. As both dogs stay calm, slowly decrease the distance.
  4. Avoid head-to-head meetings. Dogs greet best in motion.
  5. Once they can walk side by side calmly, let one dog walk just behind the other so the rear dog can smell the front dog's hindquarters. Then switch positions.

Moving to the yard, then the house

  • If parallel walks go well, try the yard next. Keep leashes on. Remove all high-value items (toys, treats, bones).
  • Inside, keep leashes on until you're confident.
  • Talk normally. Stay calm. The dogs will read your energy.
  • Give your resident dog LOTS of love and praise — they need to know they're not being replaced.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Holding the leash too tensely. Dogs read the tension and respond defensively.
  • Leaving toys and chews around. Causes resource guarding to escalate quickly. Remove everything before your foster arrives.
  • Feeding the dogs together. Separate them initially. Supervise always.
  • Over-stimulating introductions — too many people, neighbors' dogs, etc.

If something goes wrong

Take a few steps back and retry in a few days. A bad first meeting doesn't mean failure — and it doesn't mean either dog is "bad." Reach out to us anytime for help.

Resource guarding

Resource guarding usually starts in puppyhood — being pushed away from the food bowl by littermates teaches a dog to protect high-value items. It can also be learned later, especially in rescue dogs from abusive situations. They've learned that humans take things away.

This is important: dogs who resource guard are insecure, not dominant. The cure is safety, not punishment.

Early warning signs

  • Covering the object with paws or head; leaning their body over it; placing themselves between you and the item
  • Eating faster when you or another dog approach
  • Taking the item and hiding (under couch, table)
  • Hard eyes, rigid body, ears back

Escalated behavior

  • Growling, lip snarls, lunging, biting
  • Refusing to let you near the object

If your foster is in an escalated state, do NOT approach

They are giving you clear warning signs not to come near. Prevent the situation from continuing (remove all other high-value items, give the dog space), and contact us immediately. This is common and we have approaches that work — but it requires care and the right plan.

Just like us, dogs have different sociability levels

Do you like everyone you meet? No? Neither does your dog. Sociability exists on a spectrum, and pushing past your foster's tolerance is one of the kindest things you can not do.

~10% of dogs

Social

Generally likes all other dogs, even ones that may be annoying, irritating, or rude. Usually a puppy, young dog, or a very social adult.

~40% of dogs

Tolerant

Gets along with most other dogs. Will tolerate rude behavior. Generally calm, relaxed, and confident.

~40% of dogs

Selective

Only likes certain dogs. Cautious of strange dogs. Intolerant of certain play styles or breed types.

~10% of dogs

Reactive

Just not into other dogs. Prefers to be alone. May be highly sensitive. Needs supervision, management, space, and understanding.

Dogs are individuals. Do what you can to improve their sociability, but accept who they are and respect their choices — never forcing them to be social.

Daily life with your foster

Feeding

A&F provides the food — you'll pick it up from one of our locations. Feed on a consistent daily schedule. Create a separate space (a different room, behind a closed door) where your foster eats so they feel comfortable and there's no possibility of food guarding with your resident dog. No people food. You don't know what the adoptive family wants to allow, so don't start a habit they'd have to break.

Exercise

Every day, rain or shine — except for fosters recovering from illness, injury, or in hospice care. Most dogs need at least two 30-minute walks a day to burn off energy. A tired dog is a sleeping dog, and a sleeping dog can't bark, chew, or get into trouble.

Training

We use positive, rewards-based training only. No corrections. No collars that hurt. Every behavior you teach makes your foster more adoptable — and gives them confidence they didn't have before. Old dogs absolutely can learn. Training is at your discretion, but every bit helps.

Attention and playtime

Lots of human contact is important — especially for recovering, sick, or neglected dogs. Schedule a few minutes of playtime periodically through the day. Don't play tug of war or wrestle with your foster. If your foster is shy or fearful, don't throw toys toward them — they may think you're throwing things at them.

When playtime is over, put toys away. You control the toys and the playtime.

Children and fosters

As a general rule, children under 18 should not be left alone and unsupervised with any dog — but especially a foster. Teach kids to leave dogs alone while they're eating, chewing, or sleeping. Never let a child remove a toy or possession from a foster. A child won't differentiate between a foster and a family dog they've grown up with — that's on the adults to manage.

Fostering is a partnership. You and us, working together to help save a soul. The dog gets a safe place to land while we find their family. And somewhere out there, a person is waiting for the dog only you can introduce them to.
The Always & Furever foster ethos

Helping your foster find their home

Marketing matters. The more visibility your foster gets, the faster they find their family. You are their best advocate.

Photos that get clicks

A great photo is often the difference between a dog who gets inquiries and one who doesn't.

  • Natural light, outdoors — almost always better than indoor or flash.
  • Have the sun behind you so you're not casting a shadow on your subject.
  • Use treats or a squeaky toy to capture their best expression. Two people helps.
  • Props work — a favorite ball, an "Adopt Me" bandana.
  • Browse Petfinder for similar dogs and notice which photos make you stop scrolling. Try to mimic those shots.
  • If your first attempts flop, keep trying. When you're having fun, the dog is having fun, and it shows.

Bios that find homes

Every foster is required to write a bio. Short or long, that's up to you. A great bio is part press release, part storytelling.

  • Open with who the dog is — not a list of facts, but a glimpse of the personality.
  • Second paragraph: traits, training, cute behavior.
  • Final paragraph: the ideal forever home environment.
  • Write from the dog's perspective when you can — what you imagine they're thinking, feeling, remembering. It's the most compelling thing on the page.
  • Be honest, but choose words carefully. A dog who isn't house-trained yet is "working on her house manners." A dog who doesn't like other dogs "wants to be your one and only." A dog who needs training is "looking forward to attending class with his adopter."

Spread the word

  • Email family, friends, and colleagues. Ask them to share.
  • Post a flyer at your workplace or on your office door.
  • Tell people at your kid's school, place of worship, or other community group.
  • Walk your foster wearing an "Adopt Me" bandana in busy areas.
  • Post on your own social media plus the A&F Facebook groups: Adoptable Dogs or Adoptable Cats.
  • Make a slideshow or video.
  • You're required to attend at least one A&F adoption event per month.

When someone wants to adopt your foster

  1. The applicant submits at alwaysandfurever.org/forms. The adoption team processes the application — this can take up to 2 weeks.
  2. If approved, you'll get an email. A team member will email the approved adopter with your contact info CC'd. They'll reach out to you to talk about your foster.
  3. Your opinion matters enormously. You know this dog best. If something doesn't feel right about the applicant, tell the foster and adoption teams. We trust your read.
  4. If it feels right, set up a meet and greet. Anywhere works — it doesn't need to be at a barn. A trainer can be there if needed.
  5. 24-hour waiting period. From the initial meet and greet to pick-up, there's a required 24-hour wait. Use it to think.
  6. Pick-up day. Confirm the adopter has signed the electronic adoption contract before they leave. Take a photo of the adopter(s) with the pup — we'll post it.

Want to adopt your foster?

Foster parents have first rights to adopt their foster pup. Just let us know.

Going out of town

We know you can't always take your foster with you. We ask that you treat your foster like your own pup in every circumstance — so if you're traveling, find a loved one who can watch them (they'll need to submit a quick foster application and be approved), or hire a sitter.

If our shelters are full when you ask, we won't always have a spot. Communicate with us as early as you can. We're here to help find the best possible solution — but it really is a partnership.

Emergency: pet poisoning

Keep this section bookmarked. Time matters in a poisoning, and knowing the signs can save your foster's life.

Early signs of poisoning

Vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, depression, agitation, seizures, lethargy, loss of appetite, inability to urinate, nosebleeds, bleeding gums, black or bloody stools. If you suspect poisoning, call your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 immediately. Keep hydrogen peroxide and activated charcoal on hand.

Extreme danger — human medications

Blood pressure pills, heart medication, opiates and pain meds, NSAIDs (Aleve, Advil, Motrin, Aspirin), acetaminophen (Tylenol).

Extreme danger — plants

Sago palms, castor beans, poinsettia, azaleas, lilies.

Extreme danger — chemicals

Cleansers, fire logs, rat poison, anti-freeze, fertilizers, weed killer, insecticides.

Extreme danger — human food

Coffee, chocolate, baker's chocolate, sugar-free candy and gum (xylitol), grapes and raisins, alcoholic drinks.

Very high — meds & food

Tricyclic antidepressants, methylphenidate (ADHD meds), decongestants (NyQuil, Sudafed), vitamin D. Plus mushrooms, yeast dough, raw meat/eggs, bones, onions, garlic.

Very high — plants & chemicals

Amaryllis, cyclamen, oleander, tulip bulbs, autumn crocus. Mothballs, paint thinner, batteries, bleach.

High danger — meds

Birth control pills, sleep aids (Restoril, Ambien, Lunesta), codeine, melatonin, bupropion (Wellbutrin, Zyban).

High danger — household & food

English ivy, peace lily, pothos, schefflera, chrysanthemum. De-icing salts, liquid potpourri, fabric softener, glow jewelry. Milk, dairy, fatty foods, fat scraps, avocados.

Common questions

How long are dogs in foster homes?

It depends entirely on the dog and the situation. The average is about 2 months. Dogs recovering from injury, certain breeds, and senior dogs may stay longer.

Can I adopt my foster?

Yes! As long as you meet A&F's adoption requirements, foster parents have first choice to adopt their foster.

How are fosters promoted?

Photos and stories of all adoptable dogs in foster homes are posted on our website, Petfinder, and Facebook. We also bring them to special events throughout the year. Fosters are required to participate and help promote — sharing pictures, stories, attending an event.

Do I have to crate-train my foster?

You're not required to, but it's one of the most effective ways to house train and provide safety. We strenuously promote crating, especially if you have your own dog (remember Rex). The crate is a safe place — never a punishment.

How can I help my foster become more adoptable?

Two ways: marketing and behavior. If no one knows about your foster, no one will adopt them — share photos and bios everywhere. And every bit of basic training, socialization, and attention you provide increases their adoptability. Shy dogs benefit from patience and routine. Rambunctious dogs benefit from manners.

Am I responsible for finding my foster's forever home?

No — but we need your help. The adoption team identifies qualified applicants and brings them to you. Your input on whether they're a good match is critical. Many fosters also find perfect matches through their own friends and family — those referrals are welcome (still must go through the application process).

What if I go on vacation or have a business trip?

Give us as much notice as possible and we can usually find a foster-sitter for short durations. Keep the foster team updated on any temporary arrangements.

Downloadable resources

Print these, save them, share them with anyone helping you foster.

Foster Handbook A&F Foster Information Packet The complete foster handbook — rules, regulations, and expectations. Training A&F Training Packet Decompression, crate training, potty training, intros, and resource guarding. Adjustment The 3-3-3 Rule Printable guide to the three-day, three-week, three-month adjustment timeline. Sociability Don't Force Me to Be Social Visual guide to canine sociability — social, tolerant, selective, reactive. Emergency Pet Poison Control Chart A complete reference for common pet poisons — medications, plants, chemicals, foods. Community A&F Volunteers Facebook Group Connect with other fosters and volunteers. Ask questions, share wins. Promote A&F Adoptable Dogs Group Post your foster dog's photos and bio here to reach potential adopters. Promote A&F Adoptable Cats Group Post your foster cat's photos and bio here to reach potential adopters.

Stay in touch. Ask questions. Thank you.

We could not do what we do without fosters like you. If you're not sure who to ask, try your mentor, the medical coordinator, the Facebook group, or email — someone will get you to the right person.

Ready to become a foster? Start your foster application. Already fostering and need help? Reach us through alwaysandfurever.org/contact.

With kindness, dignity, and respect.
Thank you for helping us say yes to those who need it most. 🐾